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Tuesday, July 27, 2004

Man From Tibet

To be honest, he isn't from Tibet - but from a country nearby - not Nepal. I don't remember now what he said but I think it was  "Birhain"

In case you're interested in such things, these closeups were done with the 100 mm lens, about a foot away from the subject, at about f2.8.

9:25:08 PM    

Umbrella Man in Red

3:21:44 PM    

As far as portable data storage goes - there are used / cheap and maybe even free (Dad?? / N.? Anyone?) laptops floating around everywhere.  It's not like I'm going into the woods with the thing.  So my plan is - have enough CF cards for one days shooting - siphon them to the laptop when needed.  Yeah.  That's what I'm going to do.  I like that plan.  Those Taiwan (where do you think the laptop is made anyway) wallet gizmos make me nervous.

1:52:57 PM    

Street Scene #362

12:49:00 PM    

Birds In Window

Malaysian restaurant near my house - with these weird concaved booths with bars on the windows...

8:46:13 AM    

So you have a 20 mm lens and you have a 1.6 magnification factor and you multiply them and you get a lens with an equivalent focal length of: 32 mm.

Well, yes and no.  First of all, the 20 mm lens will still have the depth-of-field character and the "look" of a 20mm lens.  And in fact, it is still the same 20mm lens that it was before.  All that has happened is that you've chopped off a bit (more than a bit) around the edges changing the Angle of View to that of a 32 mm.

So, this has some other side effects.  The hand held recipricol shutter speed / focal length rule is still in effect.  You are shooting with a 20mm lens, so you can easily hand hold it at 1/20th of a second.  The depth of field, is still that of a 20mm lens at a particular F-Stop. But your field of view is that of a 32 mm lens.

In other words - I found myself using the same set of lenses that I had been using with the "full-frame" film camera: the 35mm, 50 f1.4, and 100 f2. 

So that was interesting and surprising.  When I put the 20mm lens on the camera, I said to myself (I talk to myself more and more lately) - that just looks like my 20mm lens - meaning, if you tilt it you get the bent lines of a 20mm lens etc. - and has the same depth of focus of a wide angle lens - it just doesn't show as much.  Hmmm.  That is different.  Narrow angle of view.  Same hand holding character.  Same depth of field.  Just not as much of the lens is being used. 

So I walked back doing some more mumbling and the best I could come up with was: hmmm.  That's wild.

- - -

One other bit memory of the long gone Pro 1:  after walking around with it for a while, I noticed that the handle was getting warm.  Strange.  Not quite warm enough to drop - but warm enough to make you wonder if you could use it for a hand-warmer in the winter.  When I returned to the house - took out the manual.  You know how the beginning of these things are filled with about 100 warnings.  Don't do this.  Don't put the batteries in your mouth.  Don't drool on the camera as it may explode.  But one actual thing said something along the lines of: You may notice after a while that the camera is warm.  This does not mean there is a problem with the camera.  You may wish to turn the camera off for a while.

Something along those lines.  So there is a bit of engineering marvel - if it gets warm - turn it off.  Or as the patient with the arm that hurt was told by the doctor - well then don't do that (i.e. hold it in that position).

6:59:37 AM